I’ll add more details later but for now…I’ve just returned from 2 weeks in Spain. Pure holiday with 4 old friends. It was great and a really wide range of experiences, from dodging explosions from fireworks thrown everywhere on the streets in Valencia, to freezing while watching flamenco about 3 metres away in Sevilla, to the museums and fantastic live jazz in madrid, to the excellent restaurants in barcelona from michelin starred to a tiny counter in a fresh food market which all the top chefs and jean paul gaultier frequent. Oh and of course my non-Spanish turned out to be the best Spanish among my friends (which tells you how ill-equipped we were) and actually, surprisingly, we survived the non-English speaking Spain amazing well. We knew we had “nailed” blending in when English people started asking US in their broken Spanish for directions…and we could actually help them!
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Addendum: It’s 18 May and I’m just gonna cover some highlights and the overall feel I was left with. You know how people often go on a holiday have so much fun and then come back totally coming down and it’s quite difficult getting back to real life? Well this holiday was like a flame burning gently warmer and warmer and had a sweet just right feeling at the end for me, I actually went back to work refreshed and feeling good.
I’m terrible with flights usually but this time I slept, on and off but properly. I think it was largely to do with the fact that I was sitting next to Elaine and was just feeling comfortable. It was nice that things went smooth in a way that’s really great!
We landed in Barcelona. Caught our transfer on Spanair to Valencia. We were going to catch Las Fallas, which was the welcome spring festival. BIG event. All shops closed. People everywhere, the Spanish take Las Fallas seriously. So much so that when we landed in Valencia airport, we found out our luggage had not been loaded on because it was a holiday?!!! 2 out of 60 bags made it, and we were not that 2.
To the hotel, where we met Alice at the reception. Blonde, pretty, fair-skinned, excellent English (a rarity in Spain) and busy but very sweet. We talked several times. We got to hear the audio fireworks. I didn’t expect much but it was actually quite impressive, like a 21 gun salute that went much longer. Picked up Jean and we found out first hand that the Spaniards take holiday and siesta very seriously. No restaurant to be found for our late late lunch. In the end we made do. We also got to try some churros, yum!
At night we were off for the Las Fallas. We picked a big effigy to stakeout, I was tired and just wanted to see one. We picked one that was not too big and not the most elaborate to make sure it wasn’t the winner of the best effigy contest, apparently the winner escapes being burnt. But in the cold, standing with my feet aching SO SO much like it hadn’t in eons, we started asking each other, err, is this the winner?!! Were we that “lucky”?!! Finally it got burnt and with the surging crowd trying to avoid the flying ashes and smoke, it was getting a bit panicy and mayhemy. Almost. We had to push through a packed crowd to get back and it was a little scary trying not to lose each other and getting separated and trying hard to keep hold of each other.
And the fireworks people were flinging on the street into the crowd in any available space. They were like gunshots going off suddenly right near you. It felt like war training. On hindsight, we laughed about it and as I was telling the others, no regrets, we really got to see how the Spaniards celebrate..like crazy!
Off to Sevilla. We heard it was pretty and I kept looking out of Seville oranges but didn’t get to taste any. Another cold night. This festival the holy week was so different. Sombre, with hooded (like ku klux klan) processions, devoted adults and little kids with their parents helping to carry the giant candles and giving them water. Children darted amongst the processioners catching falling wax with their bare hands to form a ball, apparently for luck. And they had elaborate glinty gold processions, heavy. Guys were sweating underneath to carry these and apparently this position is so hotly in demand that one year the procession was cancelled and grown men cried as most people only get the chance once and theirs was gone.
We watched Flamenco. Tiny courtyard, improvisional, raw, pure passion and up close. I was so tired I kept nodding off and I was cold but I saw enough. In seville we started eating better and better food so yay. We tried gazpacho, had cafe con leche in local bars/coffeeshops. Tiny, standing at the counter amongst the old men drinking their 50% alcohol anis for breakfast!! Noone spoke English here and the chalk written partial menu on the wall was pure Spanish. We got by with pointing and rapidly increasing Spanish. My Spanish was incredibly limited..and the best in the group.
We bought jam made by nuns from the convent. Marmalada? The nun let us in when I asked that. They had been telling us in Spanish that they were closed due to the holy week. I got some marmalade for mom and lemon cream which she said was MMMMM with cheese. And it is. And fantastic with serrano ham as well although I am out of the ham long gone.
Everywhere in Spain had great coffee. I loved having breakfast at the counters in bars all over. I would talk to locals, ask them what they were eating. Jean thought otra mas meant ham..and I was saying well mas means more…and then in Madrid, at one of the top 10 jazz clubs in Europe, we had such a good jazz performance. Finished and the crowd started yelling “OTRA MAS” and we all looked at each other with this “ohhhhh” look. Another one. That would explain why cafe owners looked so puzzled when we walked in, had not ordered anything and kept asking for otra mas.
We started up with the orange juice somewhere I think. It was so good everywhere. They had these machines that elaborate squeezed the juice fresh..so sweet. We couldn’t believe they served it with packets of sugar on the side. Apparently valencia oranges..not seville.
Madrid..outlet shopping. I’m not a big shopper but I bought some bally for my mom. AND a highlight - Reina Sophia and the Prado. We did the audio guides, had to race through the Reina before it closed. Got to see some really famous art at both. Dali’s great masturbator. Started paying attention to Picasso.
Barca! My favourite. They say a city of lifestyle and it’s easy to fit in with the breezy city. Good food, modern shops, easy street layout like New York but wider roads more open and Gaudi. La Pedrera was a surprise, made you understand the Sagrada Familia and Gaudi’s brilliance, much more than just outlandish designs. We stopped at Loewe again for Elaine to pick up her bag.
We ate at Hofmann, the most affordable michelin starred restaurant in Spain. Fantastic, fixed price lunch for 39 E. We had like 7 different courses including fantastic bread, 2 main courses, garlic cream amuse bouche, brilliant wine - Torres Atrium Merlot 2006. Would you believe..19 E at the restaurant and a steal compared to Singapore. And this wine was like 7.98E in the supermarket! I bought a bottle to bring home. Velvety smooth yet full of ripe dark fruit flavour and intense in the nose, a proper merlot I think, we all commented that we really liked it. I dread to think how much we pay in Singapore for wine not even as good. The starter Torres here is S$31.60 and it was 3.98E at El Cortes (less than S$10!!!! *cries*). I bought a Torres Coronas Temparinillo, 5.90E or so.
Highlight for lunch, well it was all so enjoyable and service was superb. Truly superb. We never get service like this in Singapore. I could cry. We paid about 230E for 5 people including the wine and the waiter even checked out the phone number of another restaurant (Ovic) for us. A highlight was dessert time, even though we’d all been served the same things, dessert was special. Each one of us had a different thing and it all looked like works of art. The one that stuck in my mind was the oval bubble which was on the side of Elaine’s dessert, as thin as a real bubble but made of sugar! And captured inside at the bottom a few sauced berries. For flavour I liked my tiramisu best. With a little pot of masala wine ice cream.
Ovic, whose chef trained at El Bulli for 3 seasons. Small, intimate, only a couple of tables. We arrived at 8pm, the earliest! It was the perfect dinner for the last night. We loved the vichysoisse and I really enjoyed the creme brulee foam. Molecular gastronomy is nothing something I think I would crave so no regrets cancelling on Madrid’s 2 star La Alqueria associated with El Bulli chef Ferran Adria but this touch of molecular was just right.
Picasso museum. More Picasso but it was good. Audioguide time. This is worth doing in Barca, small and cosy, getting personal with Picasso. His Las Meninas was the most interesting thing there I think and it was more significant because we had seen THE Las Meninas in Prado.
And..highlight of Spain for me. At the Boqueria market, Pinotxo! We had xixos (pronounced chee chos) and it made me laugh everytime Cheryl would recall longingly “And what about those xixos!” We squealed for 45mins over EVERYTHING at Pinotxo. The xixos, service and friendliness of Juanito and his nephews and their sons was so memorable. Not cheap but for the fun and enjoyment we had not too expensive. 4 of us paid about 72E. I also had a glass of cava there, perfect to wash down every bite of food.
I also shopped at the market, it was the most shopping I did the whole trip really. Foie gras, truffle oil, serrano ham and a paella pan!
On the way back in Amsterdam airport stopover. I bought this gold in best dutch cheese 2007/ trophy for supreme champion continental cheese - Reypenaere. About 20E for 700g. My most expensive cheese ever lol but a great thing to bring home from a holiday.
I’m gonna stop here as it’s late and I’m tired. Spain. No regrets! i got to use my limited Spanish and got understood. Wandered out on my own once and was able to smoothly ask in Spanish if someone spoke English. No. I shot back straight in Spanish with my question for directions. LOL it was fun talking and trying to to talk to Spaniards. Lots of pictures but if you know me, email me and I can link you up. Otherwise I don’t really post pics much. I realise I’ve written lots though!